Folly of Man
Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley Oregon
Certified Organic/Practicing Biodynamic Farming
We’ve been privileged to know Tracy Kendall for about as long as we have been in the wine business. A longtime winemaker in the Willamette Valley, most recently working alongside one of the greats of Burgundy, Tracy and her wines have inspired us. How? First, by reminding us how truly great work is composed of curiosity, intellect, discipline, and care; second, by confronting us with the fact that Pinot Noir, that ubiquitous yet foundational grape, is striving toward its apex beyond the hallowed hills of Burgundy.
Although her work has put her in close collaboration with some of the greats of the wine world, her most important partnership is both professional and personal: working with her husband Aaron. He originally from the Finger Lakes and she from Seattle, Aaron and Tracy met at Adelsheim, and took in all the possibilities that the Willamette Valley had to offer. Together, the two embarked on parallel paths in Oregon wine: she as an enologist at Adelsheim then Nicolas-Jay, he for many years working with the Etzel family at Beaux Freres, where he was deeply engaged in the winemaking, cellar work, and managing the early days of their biodynamic farming program.
Aaron and Tracy Kendall
Though their professional addresses remained separate, the dialogue over their work was ever-present. The two share an insistence on top-quality farming, exacting cellar work, and pathos-driven winemaking. At the same time, their family grew, and with this, the discussion of new beginnings took root. And while their fingerprints are firmly imprinted on some of the valley’s most celebrated wines, both Aaron and Tracy said, quite explicitly, that they had no interest in making “their own.” This stands to reason: while winemaking is itself a risk, the challenge of locating, financing, and initiating something entirely their own seemed, well, folly.
Yet life often presents us with opportunities to rethink our own precepts, and moments to decide just how much we are willing to risk to speak clearly, with our own voices. When they were offered the chance to purchase the Crawford-Beck estate in the throat of the Van Duzer corridor in the Eola-Amity Hills, their hand was forced, and Folly of Man was born with this, the inaugural 2023 vintage. Directly located in the wind-tunnel of the Van Duzer Corridor, these 16 acres of vineyards are of radically varying character and composition, and live amongst live oak, milkweed, and other native forestry preserves.
While we think of the Willamette Valley as an “established” appellation, its contemporary advent is just a scant few decades old. As a result, the work here is nascent, novel, and constantly evolving. The wines are made in a classic profile–barrel ferments for Chardonnay, gentle pumpovers for Pinot, low sulfur regimens, and no filtration–to accentuate the differences between sites and vintages, as it should be. Yet for Aaron and Tracy there is a palpable sense of discovery, as they continue their dialogue alongside these vineyards, articulating the relationship between soil and grape, vintage and cellar, and one another. And given their incredible experience there will always be space to make wine from some of the great vineyards of the valley, including the top ridge of the sui generis Momtazi vineyard and the DeLancellotti vineyard, both farmed biodynamically.
Totaling just a few hundred cases of estate wines and a small amount of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from some of the most lauded vineyards in the Willamette Valley, these are the product of decades of experience, effort, and lasting human connection. We’re proud to call Tracy and Aaron friends, and for Loci to represent these very limited wines to you.
Wines Available:
“Coleen” Willamette Valley Chardonnay 2023
From Pearlstad vineyard in Eola-Amity, devoted almost entirely to Chardonnay and a top site for mineral, saline Chardonnay in the valley. DeLancellotti’s vineyards have been farmed biodynamically from the beginning. 100% marine sediment soils. Whole-cluster pressed, settled, then fermented slowly with native yeasts in barrels. Aging is up to 18 months in barrel.
Folly of Man Estate Eola-Amity Hills Chardonnay 2023
6 acres of the estate, vines planted in 1996, predominantly marine sediment soils at the lower portion of the vineyard, taking in the winds of the Van Duzer corridor. Whole-cluster pressed, settled, then fermented slowly with native yeasts in barrels. Aging is up to 18 months in barrel
Momtazi Vineyard McMinnville Pinot Noir 2023
Longtime friends and colleagues, the inimitable Moe Momtazi has offered Tracy and Aaron fruit from the highest ridge of the estate’s vineyards. Fruit is de-stemmed and given a few days’ cold soak before native fermentation begins. Daily pumpovers until pressing, and into barrels for 18 months before bottling without fining or filtration.
Folly of Man Estate Eola-Amity Hills Pinot Noir 2023
From the upper blocks of the old Crawford Beck estate, this is windswept Eola-Amity Pinot Noir with energy and verve. Fruit is de-stemmed and given a few days’ cold soak before native fermentation begins. Daily pumpovers until pressing, and into barrels for 18 months before bottling without fining or filtration.
